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            Wild garlic control

            February 19th, 2020 · No Comments

            Wild garlic control with weed sticks As the climate changes it is starting to favour different plants. One such plant thats doing really well with the
            changes is wild garlic a great plant for use in cooking the leaves can be wrapped around meat and fish but in the garden it can soon become invasive. Its difficult to control with normal weed control methods as it grows in-between your existing garden plants but with use of a weed stick and Round up weed killer its easy to target the wild garlic without effecting any of your garden plants and minimal damage to the environment https://www.progreen.co.uk/equipment/handheld-applicators/weedstick

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            Suitable plants for planting under roses

            March 6th, 2019 · No Comments


            Traditionally rose beds have always been dug over in the winter but this can cause problems with damaged rose roots producing suckers later in the season from the wounds on the roots. Its better to mulch with well rotted horse manure and with no digging taking place underplanting is an option. Listed below are a few plants that are suitable for planting under roses

            Geranium thumbling hearts
            Geranium renardii
            Geranium sanguineum
            Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’
            Nepeta racemosa ‘Walkers Low’
            Salvia nemorosa
            Phlox subulata
            Eschscholzia californica
            Epimedium grandiflorum ‘creeping yellow’
            Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’
            Osteospermum sp.
            Begonia sempreflorum

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            Keeping your garden tidy after your bulbs have finished flowering

            December 23rd, 2018 · No Comments

            If you are the kind of gardener that wish to keep your garden extra tidy after you bulbs have finished flower one solution might be a bulb basket so the bulbs can be lifted once they have finish flowering moved to another location and allowed to die back naturally to create next seasons flower. If the bulb is not allowed to die back naturally the bulb in most cases will not produce flowers next spring.
            Bulb basket are very useful with the larger bulbs such as daffodils and tulips

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            Problems with squirrels and rabbits with your newly planted bulbs

            November 15th, 2018 · No Comments

            If you love your spring flowering bulbs but are plagued by rabbits and especially squirrels digging up your newly planted bulbs then one answer is to plant them with a wire mesh over and around them to form a barrier against the feeding rodents – its quite a lot of work but its the only sure way to protect your bulbs.

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            Keeping your garden tidy after your bulbs have flowered

            November 15th, 2018 · No Comments


            If you are the kind of gardener that wishes to keep your garden extra tidy after your bulbs have finished flower one solution might be a bulb basket so the bulbs can be lifted once they have finish flowering moved to another location and allowed to die back naturally to create next seasons flowers. If the bulb is not allowed to die back naturally the bulb in most cases will not produce flowers next spring.
            Bulb basket are very useful with the larger bulbs such as daffodils and tulips

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            What to grow in your cold greenhouse in the winter

            November 14th, 2018 · No Comments

            What to grow in your cold greenhouse in the winter. Depending on the temperature the seeds might be a bit slow germinating and the cutting might take a bit longer to root than normal
            All best sown in pots ideally inside a small propagator within your glasshouse with some horticultural fleece on standby for the very cold night in the dead of the winter.
            If the weather produces a warm winter then fungal diseases are going to be your main problem so remove all the dead leaves from the plants and general area to stop fungal disease spreading.

            Plants from Seed

            Salad leaves I aim to sow at least one 12cm (5in) pot of salad leaves every week and get two or maybe three cuts per pot. Right now, the hardier oriental brassicas, green in the snow, komatsuna, mizuna and red mustard can be germinated indoors and will be ready, depending on the weather, in around six weeks.

            Mangetout peas ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’ stands low temperatures better than others. Sow four seeds to a 10cm (4in) pot. Pot on into 30cm (12in) pots when around 15cm (6in) tall and support with 1.2m (4ft) long twiggy sticks, or plant in soil beds.

            Sweet peas I never get around to sowing in October, but I’ve often caught up by sowing in November, December or January/February. You’ll still get flowers weeks ahead of spring-sown plants.

            Broad beans Sowing now produces young plants for early spring, planting either in beds (near the door so bees will find and pollinate them) or outdoors. Sow one seed to an 8cm (3in) pot. ‘Aquadulce Claudia’ is reliable.

            Early-pull carrots ‘Amsterdam Forcing’ and ‘Early Nantes’ do well from late-winter sowings in a 30cm (12in) pot. By spring you’ll have tender young roots to pull.

            Plants from Cuttings

            Pyrcantha – in late autumn easy to root in pots from stem cuttings and will over winter
            Skimmia Japonica – in late autumn easy to root in pots from stem cuttings and will over winter

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            One day gardening course from GardenAdvice a great Christmas present for the gardener in your life

            November 14th, 2018 · No Comments

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            Caring for Buxus Shaped Plants

            October 18th, 2018 · No Comments

            Buxus plants trained into shapes such as balls and cones, they do need a bit of special care. They can get a disease called box blight but this mainly seems to be on plants that are not cared for. The Box blight is a fungal disease that builds up on old foliage and starts to show itself as a black mould like substance on the stems.
            So its best to feed you buxus with some liquid tomato feed from March to the end of October twice a month – liquid tomato feed is high in potash and creates a hard grow not easily infected by fungal diseases. Then shaking the plants to remove dry dead leaves is recommended as well as in the summer watering the heads with a jet of water to again remove any dead leaves and stop the build up of dead leaves inside the ball which supports fungal grow.
            Finally with our Buxus balls or other shapes on dry days during the winter twice a year we reach inside the ball and apply a dressing of yellow sulphur here is a link
            https://www.homebase.co.uk/yellow-sulphur-225g_p412900
            this helps stop the spread of any fungus – its worth testing a plant before you treat all the plants just to make sure you have no side effects i.e burning etc

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            Creating A Mirco Clover Lawn

            September 5th, 2018 · No Comments

            Preparing a seed bed for a micro clover lawn

            The best time for sowing a microclover lawn from seed is in the early autumn from September onwards.
            The first task is to generally level the area and allow any weed
            seeds to germinate and remove these weeds by hand or spray them off with
            Roundup weed killer.
            Next after a couple of weeks rake the area with a fine rake removing all the large stones and producing a fine tilth on the surface of the soil.
            Sow the clover about half a handful per square metre and lighty rake the seed in. If the soil is dry you can also roll the area or use you feet to tread in the seed it. Iits important the seed makes good contact with the soil as this helps stop it drying out.
            Once the seed is sown keep the area moist with watering as required for
            14 days. As the clover germinates any weeds that show should be spot treated with
            Roundup weed killer or removed by hand.
            It the ground is stoney it can be rolled after about a month to push the stones back into the
            ground once the clover start to germinate.
            The first cut of the cloner can take place after about 8 weeks using a rotary mower on its highest setting.
            With regards to feeding clover produces its own nitrate feed from the air using bacteria
            in its roots. So normally a clover lawn does not need feeding. However if its slow establishing use half a handful of Growmore fertilizer per square metre.

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            Flowers suitable for cut garden

            September 5th, 2018 · No Comments

            Bulbs
            Allium ‘Purple Sensation” Dahlia
            Gladiolus
            Tulipa ballerina
            Tulipa triumph white
            Annuals
            Ammi majus
            Briza media
            Ceanothus cynara Cosmos candy stripe Eschscholzia californica Hesperis matronalis Limonium latifolium Lunaria annua
            Nigella
            Zinnia ‘Sprite Mix’
            Perennials
            Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ Anemone coronaria
            Astrantia
            Coreopsis moonbeam Delphinium Faust
            Delphinium Guardian
            Dianthus
            Dianthus barbatus ‘Green Trick’ Echinacea ‘Green Jewel’ Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’ Gypsophilia paniculata Helianthus debilis ‘Vanilla Ice’ Knautia
            Matthiola incana
            Narcissus ‘Tete a tete’ Penstemon Garnet
            Penstemon Garnet
            Penstemon Sour grapes
            Peony ‘Bowl of Beauty’
            Phlox paniculata Amethyst Scabiosa Blue Note
            Verbena bonariensis

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            Adding colour to woodland gardens

            April 18th, 2018 · No Comments

            If you are looking to create some colour in a woodland garden or border with a heavy tree canopy the GardenAdvice team have a few tips and tricks to keep help produce some colourful displays.
            It’s worth focusing on spring colour when planning a woodland garden or shaded border as a number of plants have evolved to flower before the leaves on larger deciduous tree come out in the spring to form a dense canopy shading the ground.

            A good place to start it to imagine that you are creating 4 levels of planting within the area with each level designed to create a different level of flowering.

            The first layer could be made up of quite large shrubs such as –
            azalea mollis
            Camellia
            hamamelis x intermedia
            magnolia stellata
            In addition the second layer in less shady area could be made up of plants designed to provide autumn colour such as –
            parrotia persica
            euonymus alatus
            Digitalis purpurea

            The third layer under could be made up of plants that are able to grow and flower in shade in early spring such as –
            skimmia japonica rubella
            brunnera macrophylla
            pulmonaria
            gaultheria procumbens

            The fourth layer is the ground floor layer and as well as spring flowers it offers the opportunity to extend the flowering period slightly into summer and the autumn with the following plants
            Crocus speciosus large autumn crocus
            Agapanthus
            cyclamen hederifolium
            pulsatilla vulgaris

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            Protect your garden against deer and rabbits

            March 30th, 2018 · No Comments

            Rabbits, Deer And How To Stop Them Playing Havoc In The Garden

            In the past, in my various gardening roles, I have been lucky enough not to experience too many problems with bunnies and bambies. But for those not familiar with these pests, deer and rabbits between them will eat virtually every garden plant. From the more obvious and juicy bedding plants and salad crops, to young shrubs and trees. So if you have just moved in to an area, or a new house and you want to have a garden what do you do?
            One method, if deer are a major problem in your area, is that the entire garden needs to be fenced off with deer wire fencing 8 feet (3.75 meters). If it is rabbits, then you need rabbit wire about 3 feet high buried in to the soil at least 18 inches deep. The reason for all this ugly fencing is that deer can jump very high (even those cute little Munck Jack deer) and rabbits are prodigious diggers.

            There are a variety of things that you could try to repel deer, from human hair, to loud banging noises, to suspended shiny CD discs. In my experience, however, none or these work, certainly not on any long term basis. What is more, they look even more unpleasant than the fencing.
            Obviously not everyone wants their garden to look so fortified, especially if it is only a very small plot. So what do you do? Then solution, for deer at least, is to limit the plants you grow to those that are deer proof. These are plants that are known to be unattractive to deer, either because they taste, or smell unpleasant to them, or are spiky. You will also find it valuable to talk to gardeners in your area, or join your local garden club or society and ask them for advice. Below is an extensive selection of Annuals, Perennials, Shrubs, Trees and Vines / Ground Cover plants which are known to be deer proof. Let me know about your deer and rabbit experiences, send me an EMail percy@gardenadvice.co.uk.
            Annuals
            * Calendula officinalis (Pot Marigold)
            * Campanula medium (Canterbury Bells)
            * Impatients wallerana (Busy Lizzie)
            * Lupinus (Lupin)
            * Moluccella laevis (Bells Of Ireland)
            * Myosotis sylvatica (Forget Me Not)
            * Papaver nudicaule (Iceland Poppy)
            * Papaver rhoeas (Flanders or Shirley Poppy)
            * Ricinus communis (Castor Oil or Bean Plant)
            * Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)
            * Vinca Rosea (Madagascar Periwinkle)
            * Zinnia
            Perennials / Bulbs
            * Aconitium (Monkshood)
            * Agapanthus (Nile Lily)
            * Agave
            * Aloe
            * Amaryllis belladonna (Hippeastrum)
            * Anemone hybrida
            * Artichoke
            * Arum (Calla Lily)
            * Bamboo
            * Begonia (Tuberous)
            * Cactus
            * Chives
            * Chrysanthem maximum (Shasta Daisy)
            * Cortaderia selloana (Pampas Grass)
            * Crinum
            * Crocosmia (Monbretia)
            * Cyclamen
            * Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart)
            * Digitalis (Foxglove)
            * Eschscholzia californica (Californian Poppy)
            * Ferns
            * Freesia
            * Gaillardia grandifloria
            * Helleborus (Hellebore)
            * Hosta
            * Iris
            * Kniphofia uvaria (Red Hot Poker)
            * Lamium maculatum (Dead Nettle)
            * Lavandula (Lavender)
            * Lupinus (Lupin)
            * Jasminum (Jasmine) *
            * Mirabilis jalapa (Four O’clock Plant)
            * Narcissus (Daffodil)
            * Nepeta (Catnip)
            * Papaver orientale (Oriental Poppy)
            * Penstemon
            * Phormium (New Zealand Flax)
            * Romneya coulteri (California Tree Poppy)
            * Rudbeckia hirta (Black Eyed Susan)
            * Sisyrinchum
            * Trillium
            Shrubs
            * Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree)
            * Berberis
            * Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush)
            * Buxus (Box)
            * Callistemon (Bottle Brush) *
            * Ceanothus “Blue Jeans”
            * Ceanothus gloriosus
            * Chamaerops humilis (Mediterranean Fan Palm)
            * Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange)
            * Cistus (Rockrose)
            * Corylus cornuta californica (Western Hazelnut)
            * Cotinus coggygia (Smoke Bush)
            * Cotoneaster buxifolius
            * Cytisus scoparius (Scotch Broom)
            * Daphne
            * Elaeagnus pungens (Silverberry)
            * Erica (Heath / Heather)
            * Euonymus japonica (Evergreen Euonymus)
            * Gaultheria shallon (Salal)
            * Heteromeles arbutifolia (California Holly)
            * Hypericum (Saint John’s Wort)
            * Ilex (Holly)
            * Juniperus (Juniper)
            * Kerria japonica
            * Lantana
            * Mahonia
            * Myrtus communis (Myrtle) *
            * Nandina domestica (Sacred Bamboo)
            * Nerium oleander (Oleander)
            * Paeonia (Tree Peonies)
            * Plumbago auriculata *
            * Potentilla (deciduous types)
            * Punica grantatum “Nana” (Dwarf Pomegranate)
            * Rhododendron (not Azaleas)
            * Rhus ovata (Sumac)
            * Ribes (Flowering Currant)
            * Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)
            * Salvia (Sage)
            * Santolina
            * Solanum (Potato Vine)
            * Taxus (Yew)
            * Teucrium fruiticans (Bush Germander)
            Trees
            * Abies (Fir)
            * Acacia *
            * Acer circinatum (Vine Maple)
            * Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple)
            * Albizia julibrissin (Silk Tree)
            * Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle Tree)
            * Arbutus menziesii
            * Callistemon (Bottlebrush) *
            * Cordyline Australis
            * Eucalyptus *
            * Fraxinus (Ash)
            * Ilex (Holly)
            * Liquidambar styraciflua (American Sweet Gum)
            * Lithocarpus densiflorus (Tan Bark Oak)
            * Melia azedarach (Chinaberry, Texas Umbrella Tree)
            * Palms **
            * Picea (Spruce)
            * Podocarpus macrophyllus (Yew Pine)
            * Umbellularia californica (California Laurel, Oregon Myrtle)
            Vines / Ground Covers
            * Arctostaphylos uva-uva (Bearberry)
            * Clematis
            * Fatshedera lizei (Giant Ivy)
            * Fragaria chiloensis (Wild Strawberry)
            * Gelsemium sempervirens (Carolina Jessamine) *
            * Hedera helix (English Ivy)
            * Hypericum calycinum (Creeping St. Johnswort)
            * Jasminum (Jasmine) *
            * Laurentia fluviatilis (Blue Star Creeper)
            * Osteospermum fruitcosum (Trailing African Daisy)
            * Solanum jasminoides (Potato Vine) *
            * Trachelospermum jasminiodes (Star Jasmine) *
            * Vinca major (Periwinkle)
            * These should all be hardy in most of the UK but check with your nurseryman if you have any doubts as they can be a little tender.

            Another method work trying to protect against deer and rabbits is to use a spray jet Click here for further details

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            Plants for narrow garden borders

            March 6th, 2018 · No Comments

            Planting a narrow border can be a challenging project as not many plants are suited to grow in confirmed spaces whilst looking good. Listed below are a few explains of plants the GardenAdvice Team use when designing narrow borders

            cistus silver pink

            lavender munstead

            skimmia rubella

            anonomie queen charlotte

            pittosporum tom thumb

            Heuchera ‘Cherry Cola’

            Brunnera macrophylla ‘Silver Spear’

            epimedium x youngianum ‘niveum’

            Bulbs

            crocus

            Colchicum autumnale

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            Ground elder in new and existing borders

            January 8th, 2018 · No Comments

            On the new and existing garden borders that contain ground elder if you install ground or weed sheeting covered by bark mulch that will stop the ground elder and kill it through lack of sunlight. You can plant through the sheeting with plants by cutting crosses in the sheeting and planting through the sheeting
            You will find that some of the ground elder will come up at the edges of the sheeting and sometimes in the crosses you cut into the sheeting to carry out planting. In this case use a small hand held sprayer with Round up weed killer to treat these areas of ground elder as a spot treatment with several applications over the spring and early summer.
            With the Round up if you buy it in the litre bottles as it stronger and mix it will 60 percent water here is a link
            https://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/roundup-weedkiller

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            Pruning climbing honeysuckle

            December 7th, 2017 · No Comments

            Over the winter months you can prepare your honeysuckle for new growth and new flowers in the coming spring.
            First prune removing all the dead diseased and damaged stems cut back some of the new shoots that were created in last years growing season.
            Once all the leaves have fallen off in December or January it’s also a good idea to give the plant and winter wash to remove all the overwintering pests and diseases.
            Finally in the early spring provide the honeysuckle with a couple of handfuls of Growmore fertiliser just to ensure some strong new growth and new flowers which in most cases will be formed on the new season growth.

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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            Overwintering Geraniums.

            December 7th, 2017 · No Comments

            Overwintering geraniums – As the season draws to a close its time to save you summer geraniums before the hard frosts arrive.To do this dig up you geranium plants and cut them back to the main structure of the plant just leaving a frame work of the larger branches.The softer grow removed can be used to create softwood cuttings.
            click here for more details.
            With the remaining plants pruned back pot them us into large boxes or pots with a John Inness soil based compost making sure the compost is quite dry. Then place them on or near a window sill in a cool frost free area overwinter.Water very lightly every two weeks to stop them totally drying out.Then you will find in February to early March they will have produced a number of shoots that can be again used for softwood cuttings.Then at the end of March re-pot the plants and start to water and feed them before planting them out into the final bedding positions in the garden or your tubs.One final point whilst over wintering the geraniums keep an eye open for fungal infections and remove any dead of damaged leaves or stems.

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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            Getting Your Christmas Cactus To Flower.

            December 5th, 2017 · No Comments

            Treat them mean and keep them keen – A term not often used in relation to plants but in the case of a Christmas Cactus its the key to getting them to flower at the best.Ideally they need to be grown pot bound and slightly under fed so the leaves start to yellow in the autumn.This treatment of a Christmas Cactus will help induce the plant to flower at its most prolific.Then when its finished flowering in late winter give it a light house plant feed and when the risk of frost has passed place the plant outside on a patio so that the summer rains can remove all the dust that builds on the plants leaves over the winter inside.

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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            Planting for interest near a privet hedge?

            October 30th, 2017 · No Comments

            Privet hedges are quite hungry and deplete the soil near to them of organic matter and nutrients so to grow plants near to a privet hedge you need to improve the soil with spent mushroom compost and a general fertilizer such Growmore fertilizer 

            Plants to consider planting near a privet hedge include the following

            cyclamen hederifolium

            brunnera macrophylla

            Euphorbia myrsinites

            Lonicera nitida Baggesen’s Gold

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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            Plants for creating a seaside style garden?

            September 12th, 2017 · No Comments

            Plants for creating a seaside style garden 

            Tamarix

            Armeria

            griselinia littoralis

            festuca glauca elijah blue

            verbascum gainsborough

            echium vulgare

            Cordyline Australis Red Star

            Rosmarinus officinalis

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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            Native bluebells?

            May 1st, 2017 · No Comments

            There are two species of bluebell found in the United Kingdom. Native or British bluebell and non-native Spanish bluebell. Cross-breeding between the two species means you may spot flowers which combine traits from both.
            The easiest way to tell the difference between native and non-native bluebells is to look at the colour of the pollen. If it is creamy-white then the bluebell is native. If it is any other colour such as pale green or blue then it’s not native.
            These other characteristics will also help you to tell the difference.

            Native Hyacinthoides non-scripta
            native bluebells

            Native bluebells

            Pollen cream-white colour

            Deep violet-blue. A genetic mutation occasionally causes white flowers

            Flower stem droops or nods distinctly to one side

            Almost all flowers are on one side of the stem, hanging down to one side

            Flowers are a narrow, straight-sided bell with parallel sides

            Petal tips are reflexed (curl back)

            Flowers have a strong, sweet scent

            Spanish Hyacinthoides hispanica 

            Spanish bluebells

            Spanish bluebells

            Pollen green or blue

            Pale to mid-blue, often also white or pink

            Flower stem is stiff and upright

            Flowers are usually all the way round the stem, with the flowers sticking out

            Flowers are a wide open, almost cone shaped bell

            Petal tips flare slightly outwards

            Flowers have little or no scent at all

            Why are non-native bluebells a threat?

            Spanish bluebell is a threat to our native species because they readily cross-breed resulting in the fertile hybrid Hyacinthoides hispanica x non-scripta.

            This is a problem because crossbreeding dilutes the unique characteristics of our native Bluebell, changing future generations forever.

            Most bluebells in urban areas are now thought to be hybrids and a study by Plantlife found that one in six broadleaved woodlands contained the hybrid or Spanish bluebell.

            GardenAdvice one day gardening course for beginners designed to get you started in your own garden or makes an ideal christmas gift for the gardener in your life.
            For further details Click Here

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